Attack of the Zombie Dogs
Wednesday, June 06, 03:11 AM By
Bryan
Okay, it's a
stupid title for a game. That's one of the zillion points that'll
change as this game develops. These are the beta rules, beyond
pre-alpha. This is version.002 of the rules, basically just a few
ideas strung together under a generic theme.
The basic idea is to combine a tile laying strategy game with a miniatures game. Do well in the first phase, you'll do well in the second, but a good war gamer could still prevail after a lousy set-up.
Much work will have to done during play testing, probably whole sections will be revamped and overhauled. This version also uses another game's tiles and pieces to play. Hopefully, I'll develop the playing pieces as I work on the game. For now, you'll need a copy of Zombies: The End, some other zombie figurines from other Zombie games (really any consistent tokens for each side could work) and two decks of cards. You could use tiles from other Zombie expansions, but The End has the most open tiles.
Attack of the Zombie Dogs is a zombie on zombie dogs miniatures game where set-up is extremely important. There's two main phases: Building the Game Board and Fighting the War. Each main phase has it's own set of actions.
Building the Game Board
One player starts with 32 zombie dogs, the other player starts with 32 zombies. Each player also draws three tiles. The tiles will be used to make a 4X4 square board.
Each of the players take turns performing TWO of the following actions in any order. You may also perform any action twice in a turn:
1. Laying a tile
2. Placing a Zombie
3. Moving a Zombie to any square on an adjacent tile
4. Moving a player-controlled tile to an adjacent empty space
5. Rotate a controlled tile
Adjacent is either horizontal or vertical, not diagonal in this main phase.
1. Laying a Tile. The outside of the board must be played first. You do not have to play a tile next to an existing tile. However if a tile is stranded, give it's position (IE 3-up, 2-over), so there's no confusion. You cannot lay any tiles inside the rim of the square until the outer square is complete. Controlled tiles cannot be moved inside until the First time the outer rim is complete. No tile can for any reason be placed outside the 4X4 square.
2. Placing a zombie. All zombies (and dogs) in the first phase are generic zombies. Place a zombie on any legal square inside a tile. Each tile has a 3X3 square grid. There is never any more than one zombie--of any kind--on any square for either of the main phases.
3. Moving a zombie to any square on adjacent tile. Pretty self explanatory. Only move to legal squares.
4. Moving a player controlled tile to an adjacent empty space. A player controls a tile when she has more zombies on the tile than the other player. Tiles are moved, zombies and all one space to an adjacent empty area. Tiles cannot be rotated when moved.
5. Rotating a tile. Players must control tile to rotate it.
Players draw back up to three tiles at the beginning of their turn. Once a tile has been played, it cannot be taken off the board.
This phase is over when the last tile is played completing the 4X4 grid, even if it is in the middle of a turn. This last tile, obviously, will be zombie free. All other tiles are discarded. All unplaced zombies will be placed after scoring.
Scoring
If a player controls a tile, they get one point for each zombie over the other player. For example, Player A has three zombies on a tile. Player B has five zombies. Player B would get 2 points and is the controller of that tile. The tile's controller also gets the victory point of that tile. On some of the tiles, there are 'Z's which stand for Zombie. The controlling player receives that many points in addition to having more zombies on the tile. In the above example, if Player B's tile had a Z value of 3, his total points for that tile would be 5. If a tile is tied, no player receives any points. Ignore the bullet and heart numbers on the tiles. I may add rules in for these later. Score every tile on the board. The player who has the most total points will get to go first in the second phase. There may be other bonuses in later rules versions.
With points, each player can but a variety of super zombies or just bulk on generic zombies. Here's the cost of each zombie type along with a description. I'm sure these zombie types will also evolve in the later versions of the rules. Use a different type of piece for each zombie as well as a way to distinguish each player.
Generic Zombies---1 point. Can move two spaces per turn. Draws one card for battle.
Ranged Zombies---3 points. Can move one space per turn. Can connect to any zombie in two squares away in any unblocked, straight line. Draws one card in battle.
Super Zombie---5 points. Can move three spaces per turn. Draws two cards in battle.
Zombie Wizard-- 5 points. Can move one space per turn. Can as one bonus action transport any zombie from an adjacent square to any square on the Zombie Wizards Tile's tile. Each Zombie Wizard can use this bonus ability once per the movement section of the war.
Zombie Wrangler--7 points. Can move two spaces per turn. Can draw one card in battle. Each Zombie Wrangler on the board allows it's owner to move two extra zombies, any type, per movement phase.
Zombie Master--10 points. Can move four spaces per turn. Can draw three cards in battle. The zombie master is connected to any other zombie on his tile. Each player gets ONE FREE Zombie Master in the scoring phase.
There may be more zombie types to come, but that's the basic until I can play test. Any unplaced zombies can be turned into the bank for one point a piece. Each player does not have to spend their points, but this is the only time points can be spent. Unused points are lost.
After points are spent the player with the most points in the scoring section goes first placing two zombies at a time on any space on the board. Each player takes turns placing their zombies. If a player finishes first, the other player can place their remaining pieces. Controlling tiles is no longer important and has no consequence after the scoring phase.
Fighting the War
There's two sections to each player's turn, movement and battle. They are taken in that order, movement than battle. A player may choose not to move or not to battle or both.
On the movement phase, the player may move up to five zombies up to their alloted movement. Zombie Wranglers allow more pieces to be moved and the Zombie Wizard has a free action that can only be used during this movement phase. Zombies moved this way do not count against the five total limit. Zombies can not move through any space already occupied by a zombie of either player.
Battle.
This is the sketchy part. I'll probably redo the battle part. Battles are done in chains. A zombies is considered connected to another zombie of the same player if it is adjacent (any direction including diagonally) to it. This creates a chain. Chains can be of any length. There can be only one in a chain. There is only one attack per player's turn.
How to resolve an attack.
A player's Zombie chain must have at least one zombie adjacent to an opponent's zombie.
Determine how many zombies are in each player's chain. Then determine how many cards to draw in battle. Each player has their own deck of cards, no jokers.
The outcome is determined through poker hands. Draw cards and form the best hand you can. Two cards can give you a pair. Heck, 10 cards could give you a pair as well. Reveal your cards simultaneously.
Attacking player determines damages first. Each player could damage the other in battle. You'll want to break her large chains. The damage is as follows:
High card---No opponent's zombie destroyed unless each player only has high card as their best hand. Then then the highest card destroys one zombie.
Pair-1 Zombie
Two Pair- 2 Zombies
Three of a Kind-- 2 Zombies
Straight (5 card Min)- 3 Zombies
Flush (5 card Min)- 4 Zombies
Full House- 4 Zombies
Four of a Kind- 5 Zombies
Royal Flush (5 card Min)- All Zombies in chain.
Higher value cards beat lower value of the same hand. In case of a tie, all Zombies in each chain are moved back directly on square. Zombies moved against an obstacle or off the board are destroyed.
The highest hand gets to pick which of his opponent's zombie in the opposing chain is destroyed first. Then the losing player picks. each player picks on at a time.
How to Win
There's a few variations I can think of to win the game here:
Capture the Flag--A flag is placed at the end of the scoring and final placement section. the first player to occupy an opposing player's flag square wins.
Kill the Master--The first player to kill all of the opposing player's Zombie Masters wins the game. The Zombie Master is always the last zombie destroyed in it's chain.
Everyone dies---As it sounds.
Well, that's the first draft. Much work to be done.
The basic idea is to combine a tile laying strategy game with a miniatures game. Do well in the first phase, you'll do well in the second, but a good war gamer could still prevail after a lousy set-up.
Much work will have to done during play testing, probably whole sections will be revamped and overhauled. This version also uses another game's tiles and pieces to play. Hopefully, I'll develop the playing pieces as I work on the game. For now, you'll need a copy of Zombies: The End, some other zombie figurines from other Zombie games (really any consistent tokens for each side could work) and two decks of cards. You could use tiles from other Zombie expansions, but The End has the most open tiles.
Attack of the Zombie Dogs is a zombie on zombie dogs miniatures game where set-up is extremely important. There's two main phases: Building the Game Board and Fighting the War. Each main phase has it's own set of actions.
Building the Game Board
One player starts with 32 zombie dogs, the other player starts with 32 zombies. Each player also draws three tiles. The tiles will be used to make a 4X4 square board.
Each of the players take turns performing TWO of the following actions in any order. You may also perform any action twice in a turn:
1. Laying a tile
2. Placing a Zombie
3. Moving a Zombie to any square on an adjacent tile
4. Moving a player-controlled tile to an adjacent empty space
5. Rotate a controlled tile
Adjacent is either horizontal or vertical, not diagonal in this main phase.
1. Laying a Tile. The outside of the board must be played first. You do not have to play a tile next to an existing tile. However if a tile is stranded, give it's position (IE 3-up, 2-over), so there's no confusion. You cannot lay any tiles inside the rim of the square until the outer square is complete. Controlled tiles cannot be moved inside until the First time the outer rim is complete. No tile can for any reason be placed outside the 4X4 square.
2. Placing a zombie. All zombies (and dogs) in the first phase are generic zombies. Place a zombie on any legal square inside a tile. Each tile has a 3X3 square grid. There is never any more than one zombie--of any kind--on any square for either of the main phases.
3. Moving a zombie to any square on adjacent tile. Pretty self explanatory. Only move to legal squares.
4. Moving a player controlled tile to an adjacent empty space. A player controls a tile when she has more zombies on the tile than the other player. Tiles are moved, zombies and all one space to an adjacent empty area. Tiles cannot be rotated when moved.
5. Rotating a tile. Players must control tile to rotate it.
Players draw back up to three tiles at the beginning of their turn. Once a tile has been played, it cannot be taken off the board.
This phase is over when the last tile is played completing the 4X4 grid, even if it is in the middle of a turn. This last tile, obviously, will be zombie free. All other tiles are discarded. All unplaced zombies will be placed after scoring.
Scoring
If a player controls a tile, they get one point for each zombie over the other player. For example, Player A has three zombies on a tile. Player B has five zombies. Player B would get 2 points and is the controller of that tile. The tile's controller also gets the victory point of that tile. On some of the tiles, there are 'Z's which stand for Zombie. The controlling player receives that many points in addition to having more zombies on the tile. In the above example, if Player B's tile had a Z value of 3, his total points for that tile would be 5. If a tile is tied, no player receives any points. Ignore the bullet and heart numbers on the tiles. I may add rules in for these later. Score every tile on the board. The player who has the most total points will get to go first in the second phase. There may be other bonuses in later rules versions.
With points, each player can but a variety of super zombies or just bulk on generic zombies. Here's the cost of each zombie type along with a description. I'm sure these zombie types will also evolve in the later versions of the rules. Use a different type of piece for each zombie as well as a way to distinguish each player.
Generic Zombies---1 point. Can move two spaces per turn. Draws one card for battle.
Ranged Zombies---3 points. Can move one space per turn. Can connect to any zombie in two squares away in any unblocked, straight line. Draws one card in battle.
Super Zombie---5 points. Can move three spaces per turn. Draws two cards in battle.
Zombie Wizard-- 5 points. Can move one space per turn. Can as one bonus action transport any zombie from an adjacent square to any square on the Zombie Wizards Tile's tile. Each Zombie Wizard can use this bonus ability once per the movement section of the war.
Zombie Wrangler--7 points. Can move two spaces per turn. Can draw one card in battle. Each Zombie Wrangler on the board allows it's owner to move two extra zombies, any type, per movement phase.
Zombie Master--10 points. Can move four spaces per turn. Can draw three cards in battle. The zombie master is connected to any other zombie on his tile. Each player gets ONE FREE Zombie Master in the scoring phase.
There may be more zombie types to come, but that's the basic until I can play test. Any unplaced zombies can be turned into the bank for one point a piece. Each player does not have to spend their points, but this is the only time points can be spent. Unused points are lost.
After points are spent the player with the most points in the scoring section goes first placing two zombies at a time on any space on the board. Each player takes turns placing their zombies. If a player finishes first, the other player can place their remaining pieces. Controlling tiles is no longer important and has no consequence after the scoring phase.
Fighting the War
There's two sections to each player's turn, movement and battle. They are taken in that order, movement than battle. A player may choose not to move or not to battle or both.
On the movement phase, the player may move up to five zombies up to their alloted movement. Zombie Wranglers allow more pieces to be moved and the Zombie Wizard has a free action that can only be used during this movement phase. Zombies moved this way do not count against the five total limit. Zombies can not move through any space already occupied by a zombie of either player.
Battle.
This is the sketchy part. I'll probably redo the battle part. Battles are done in chains. A zombies is considered connected to another zombie of the same player if it is adjacent (any direction including diagonally) to it. This creates a chain. Chains can be of any length. There can be only one in a chain. There is only one attack per player's turn.
How to resolve an attack.
A player's Zombie chain must have at least one zombie adjacent to an opponent's zombie.
Determine how many zombies are in each player's chain. Then determine how many cards to draw in battle. Each player has their own deck of cards, no jokers.
The outcome is determined through poker hands. Draw cards and form the best hand you can. Two cards can give you a pair. Heck, 10 cards could give you a pair as well. Reveal your cards simultaneously.
Attacking player determines damages first. Each player could damage the other in battle. You'll want to break her large chains. The damage is as follows:
High card---No opponent's zombie destroyed unless each player only has high card as their best hand. Then then the highest card destroys one zombie.
Pair-1 Zombie
Two Pair- 2 Zombies
Three of a Kind-- 2 Zombies
Straight (5 card Min)- 3 Zombies
Flush (5 card Min)- 4 Zombies
Full House- 4 Zombies
Four of a Kind- 5 Zombies
Royal Flush (5 card Min)- All Zombies in chain.
Higher value cards beat lower value of the same hand. In case of a tie, all Zombies in each chain are moved back directly on square. Zombies moved against an obstacle or off the board are destroyed.
The highest hand gets to pick which of his opponent's zombie in the opposing chain is destroyed first. Then the losing player picks. each player picks on at a time.
How to Win
There's a few variations I can think of to win the game here:
Capture the Flag--A flag is placed at the end of the scoring and final placement section. the first player to occupy an opposing player's flag square wins.
Kill the Master--The first player to kill all of the opposing player's Zombie Masters wins the game. The Zombie Master is always the last zombie destroyed in it's chain.
Everyone dies---As it sounds.
Well, that's the first draft. Much work to be done.
